NESTLED just a 45-minute drive from the cultural feast of Florence, Pisa is often overlooked as one of the smaller, less-exciting cities Italy has to offer. But this charming place has plenty to satisfy a weekend visitor in search of fine food and a
hearty injection of culture. Indeed, Pisa's most famous landmark, its Leaning Tower, is merely a flavour of the magnificent works of art and architecture both within and outside the city walls.
BEFORE YOU GO: Michelin's Pisa: Mini-guide will give you a good overview of the surrounding area, while the Bonechi Guides' Pisa: Practical Guide and the Rough Guide to Italy offer a useful collection of hotels, eateries and local sights.
WHEN TO GO: Pisa has a Mediterranean climate, so the best time for a visit is in the spring or autumn, when it is mild and the city is not too overcrowded.
PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES: Jet2 (
www.jet2.com) flies direct to Pisa from Edinburgh from May until October, while Ryanair flies direct all year round from Prestwick, with single fares often starting at as little as £25. British Airways has flights via both Gatwick and Heathrow.
On arrival at Galileo Galilei airport, you'll find a direct train service to the city centre. Alternatively, the bus service, the Compagnia Pisana Trasporti, runs from the airport to the city centre three times every hour. A taxi (if you can handle the queuing) is the quickest way to get from A to B upon arrival, and will seldom see you out of pocket for more than Û10. Just be sure and confirm the price before committing yourself.
GETTING AROUND: Pisa is a safe, compact city and the best way to get around and see the sights is on foot. Car hire is also straightforward and can be organised at the airport - there is a Europcar (00 39 02 7039 9482) desk at arrivals - via tourist information or through most hotel receptions.
TOURIST TRAIL: For the jewels in the city's crown, look no further than the Piazza dei Miracoli, otherwise known as the Square of Miracles, situated to the north of the old town. As well as the Leaning Tower, it also hosts the Romanesque splendour of the Duomo (the cathedral), the Camposanto (the cemetery) and the Baptistry (the largest of its kind in Italy). Make an afternoon of it and fully soak up the architecture inside and outside the buildings. If you still have time, stop by the relatively new Museo della Navigazione, which boasts among other treats a collection of ancient Roman wooden ships.
For those on a budget, the city's more famous monuments are free or heavily discounted between November 1 and March 1. Similarly for the Leaning Tower, a bit of forward planning goes a long way. Reopened in 2001 (having been closed in 1990 for safety reasons and renovation), only a limited number of visitors are allowed in daily, so book in advance.
GO NATIVE: Pisa is not all ancient buildings, and that's never more in evidence than during a trip to the Parco Regionale di Migliarino (www. parks.it). Established in 1979, this beautiful national park offers more than 24,000 hectares of flora and fauna and feels a million miles away from the urban centre. Those up for venturing further afield should head for San Gimignano. An hour's drive from Pisa, it is one of the most beautiful medieval towns in Italy, and is famous for its towers.
WHAT TO BUY :The Piazza dei Miracoli and nearby Borgo Street are chock-full of shops and stalls, offering everything from tourist tat to some of the area's finest food and wine.
For something a little different, the Chicco di Senape, a fair-trade, organic shop in the picaresque Piazza Vettovaglie, is worth a look.
Nightlife The Teatro Verdi showcases the city's main cultural programme and offers a busy schedule throughout the year, from ballet and theatre performances to pop, jazz and classical concerts. Founded in 1854 and designed by the architect Telemaco Bonaiuti, the theatre has undergone three different periods of renovation and today can seat an audience of more than 1,500.
WHERE TO STAY: Situated in Pisa's historical centre, the atmospheric Hotel Leonardo, on Via Tavoleria, has recently been refurbished and a room here should not cost you more than Û100 a night. The Hotel Bologna (www.hotelbologna. pisa.it), on Via Mazzini, is a typical Tuscan palazzo, which sits just 500 metres from the train station. It affords easy access to the local sights, and prices start at around Û85 per night.
WHAT TO EAT: Pizza and pasta are always a safe bet in Italy, but for really special hearty, home-cooked fare head to Le Repubbliche Marinare on the Via Riccardi. Fish lovers shouldn't leave without trying the tuna. For something a bit more economical, try Trattoria del Borgo on the Via Case Dipinte and opt for a good old-fashioned margherita pizza.
The full article contains 831 words and appears in Scotland On Sunday newspaper.
