City guide: Boston

BOSTON, said Charles Dickens, "is what I would like the whole United States to be." And it's easy to see why: one of America's oldest cities, it is also among its most European, with a civilised, cultural ambience and a sure sense of its place in the world. The birthplace of John F Kennedy, Jack Kerouac and Sylvia Plath, it is home to world-class art galleries and restaurants, and two of the US's most renowned universities, Harvard and MIT.

BEFORE YOU GO

For sheer volume of information, Lonely Planet's Boston City Guide is the best buy, but it is also worth checking out Martin Scorsese's Oscar-winner from last year, The Departed, for which Boston makes a superbly cinematic backdrop. And to while away the time on the plane, why not read Henry James's classic The Bostonians?

WHEN TO GO

Boston is popular all year round but if you go between November and March, wrap up warm, pack your skates and slip on over to the Common Frog Pond for a spot of ice-skating.

However, for those looking to escape the crowds this festive season, be warned: as many as a million visitors have been known to descend on the city for its First Night celebrations on December 31, which culminate in a fireworks display over Boston Harbour at midnight.

PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES

American Airlines and British Airways fly from the UK to Boston, with fares starting from around £250 return.

GETTING AROUND

Public transport is extensive and efficient, but the city is a walkers' paradise, so skip the subway and take in the sights along one of its well-signposted walks. Tourist trolleys (or hop-on, hop-off buses) are also popular and a great way to get around the city, especially as most allow an unlimited number of boardings.

TOURIST TRAIL

Art lovers should not miss the city's renovated Museum of Fine Arts. A glass-enclosed courtyard links the existing museum to the new American wing, which houses special exhibitions.

The Freedom Trail walking tour, where costumed characters take visitors to some of the city's key historic sites, is recommended. Similarly impressive is the Black Heritage Trail, which takes you from the African Meeting House (home of the oldest black church in America) to the St Gaudens frieze - commemorating the first all-black regiment to fight for the Union in the Civil War.

You'll need a spot of refreshment after that, so head for Cheers, the bar that inspired the hit comedy.

GO NATIVE

To discover the city's roots, check out the Old South Meeting House Museum, where the colonists began the Boston Tea Party and spurred the American Revolution. Next up, head to the Old State House Museum, where the Declaration of Independence was first read to the people of Boston.

The city started life as a port, so splash out with a cruise before you leave. Just head for the harbour and you can soon be on your way to one or more of the 34 islands that make up the country's newest national park.

Watch autumn turn the city gold on a walk along the Emerald Necklace - a five-mile-long chain of parks linked by pathways and waterways.

Bostonians love their sport - join them at Gillette Stadium to cheer on the New England Patriots (American football), or catch baseball champs the Boston Red Sox, at Fenway Park.

WHAT TO BUY

From chic boutiques to mighty malls, Boston has plenty to offer those in need of retail therapy. Newbury Street, an eight-block shopping mecca, caters to every taste. In the heart of the city is Faneuil Hall Market Place, a collection of boutiques, eateries and pushcart vendors housed in 18th-century warehouses. Next up is Filene's Basement, which is packed with tourist-friendly souvenir shops, and boasts a hearty food court to boot. Finally, book lovers with time to kill will be in heaven in Harvard Square's wealth of second-hand bookshops.

NIGHTLIFE

Boston is better known for live music than dancing and Lansdowne Street is the place to go. The likes of Aqua nightclub on Water Street attracts a younger crowd, while Venu in the trendy Theatre District draws the Prada set. For something more civilised, jazz and dinner at Top of the Hub, perched on the 52nd floor of the city's Prudential Tower, makes a spectacular night out.

WHERE TO STAY

Located in the heart of the historic Back Bay, the Boston Park Plaza Hotel & Towers boasts several restaurants, including Todd English's Bonfire Steakhouse and McCormick & Schmicks' seafood restaurant. For something more intimate, head to the Beacon Inn which comprises two 19th-century brownstones that have been fully restored into comfortable guesthouses.

WHAT TO EAT

For traditional fare, try the tourist-friendly Durgin Park restaurant where specialities include fried clams and the baked beans in molasses that give the city its 'Beantown' nickname. For an extra special treat at a very reasonable price, look no further than the No-Name Restaurant, where the seafood is lifted from the waters around the pier (as seen through the window) before it lands on your plate.

And while in Boston, don't pass up the opportunity to try the local clam chowder, lobster roll, cream pie or Indian pudding.