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Climbing their way out of a man's world


Women celebrate 100 years of their pioneering club

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Published Date: 17 May 2008
THEY set off for distant peaks in long tweed skirts, but once away from prying male eyes, they continued their climb in starched knickerbockers.
It was the era of the suffragettes, and these female climbers had been shunned by the all-male Scottish Mountaineering Club, which considered the fairer sex suitable only for preparing a sumptuous packed lunch.

But the women decided to strike out
on their own.

Today, the Ladies Scottish Climbing Club (LSCC), which played a part in the first all-women expedition to the Himalayas in 1955, will scale a new peak, marking its 100th anniversary with a communal climb in period costume.

Some 120 members from all over Scotland will celebrate the milestone with a mass ascent of the 3,352ft Buachaille Etive Mor, the big shepherd of Glen Etive, in Glencoe and hold a party on the summit.

Among those attending the celebration is Pam Cain, from Abernethy, near Perth, who, at 92, is the oldest member. As Miss Cain, a retired occupational therapist, waited for her lift to arrive yesterday, she said: "We are certainly all entering into the spirit of it. Dressing up in costume is a bit of fun. I think I may put on a balaclava to try to look the part.

"The event is a very good idea and the women who founded the club deserve to be remembered. I met Mabel Jeffrey, one of the founders and had the greatest admiration for her."

The genesis of the club was explained by Helen Steven, 65, the LSCC's president and historian, who said it had played a "unique role in mountaineering". She said: "The club was started by Jane Inglis Clark, Lucy Smith and Mabel Jeffrey, who were frustrated at being barred from the Scottish Mountaineering Club on the basis of gender.

"They were sheltering in a cave near Killin, in Perthshire, in 1908. They wanted to climb but were denied access to the Scottish Mountaineering Club.

"Jane Inglis Clark apparently announced, 'It is time we started our own club for women'. They were pioneers. The suffragettes were rolling out their campaign for the vote at the same time – our records show one early member was a suffragette."

Mrs Steven, who stared climbing at the age of six and joined the club at 17, said the earliest members were "incredible characters".

She was taught to use an ice-axe by Mabel Jeffrey and said: "I knew Mabel and remember her as very warm, rosy-cheeked and welcoming – she came into a room like a burst of sunshine. But she was hard as old nails. They were all characters, though. They encountered opposition and prejudice from people who saw climbing as not ladylike. But they were adventurous. They set off in to the hills wearing long tweed skirts, which would get really heavy in the wet, and knickerbockers underneath.

"At a suitable point out of sight of the road, and if there were no men around, a lot of them took their skirts off and climbed in their knickerbockers."


'One doesn't take part for recognition'

THE oldest member of The Ladies Scottish Climbing Club, Pam Cain, said she was drawn to the pursuit by good views and the sense of solitude.

Ms Cain, who has climbed all of Scotland's Munros and taken part in expeditions worldwide, including in Nepal and the Arctic, said: "It's just very pleasant. The views are spectacular and you are away from everyone."

She added: "Women climbers probably don't get the same recognition as men, but then one doesn't take part for the recognition."

"I've been climbing since 1960 but had to slow down a bit when I reached 70, but I love it still, doing what I can."

Ms Cain was born on the Isle of Man, and has always had a taste for adventure and volunteered to work overseas with the Red Cross during the Second World War.

"I was sent to Italy and worked in a welfare role in military hospitals. We would go round and see the wounded military and write letters for them and take them out if they had difficulty walking."

Ms Cain said her experiences in Italy made her "want to do something worthwhile" with her life and when she returned to Britain in 1947 decided to train as occupational therapist.

This brought her to Scotland in 1950, and the Bridge of Earn Hospital. "I was going to stay for a year but I've been in Scotland ever since," she said.

"Climbing has kept me fit but I've also enjoyed trekking and dingy sailing. When I retired I kept myself active."






The full article contains 778 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
Page 1 of 1

  • Last Updated: 17 May 2008 12:17 AM
  • Source: The Scotsman
  • Location: Edinburgh
 
1

Charles Linskaill,

Edinburgh 17/05/2008 01:03:31

Quite a few "Monkeys" up to "Monkey Business" on these forums,..'HUH',?

Such as our,...'Boy Wonder'!

'HUH',...'Boy Wonder',??
2

Charles Linskaill,

Edinburgh 17/05/2008 01:07:35
Oops! wrong thread! how did that happen,?

Sorry BW it was meant to be on the Animal Zoo thread!

Dissreguard! #1 (genuine mistake) :-((
3

Charles Linskaill,

Edinburgh 17/05/2008 01:12:23
Thread being,.."Learning monkey business"
4

bring them on,

17/05/2008 03:46:02
No, this was a fine article (A night at the opera might have kept me awake longer)

Thank you Scotsman
5

Ichabod,

17/05/2008 07:34:19
Do Scotsman women ever write about anything but women?
6

Alex X,

17/05/2008 08:19:44
Well done the lovely ladies and their lovely climbing expeditions.
7

JayDeeTee,

17/05/2008 10:14:32
#5. And critisising men.
8

Haggis MacBagpipes,

Central Canada - ex Perth & Glesca' 17/05/2008 10:52:30
#2 & #3 Charles Linskaill,Edinburgh

G'morning, Charles.
Lucky for you that BW wasn't on hand or you would've got thundered...deservedly so.
I take it that you are still stirring the pot!
Have a great weekend, Charles and DYW.
Cheers,
Haggis MacBagpipes™©
9

Charles Linskaill,

Edinburgh 17/05/2008 11:11:15

Haggis MacBagpipes, @#8,

"still stirring the pot!"....(as in IVF,?)

Yes, now getting to critical and scary time, excitement but with 'mixed feelings'

It all gonna take place within the next 10days or so!

Knowing DYW it will be the sooner rather than the latter.

Keep ya posted,

U2 have a great weekend,

Suzanne&Chas x
10

Lanna,

wishing to be in the mountains, rockclimbing! 17/05/2008 14:45:03

great article, and best of luck and fun for the climb!

I was rockclimbing before it became a fashionable, colour matching sport, and they're were no indoor walls, unless you made your own. I'm thankful to these women who took the first steps to make it not a "men's only club"

Hi Charles
11

Dr. James Wilkie,

Vienna 17/05/2008 16:19:20
As a member of the Scottish Mountaineering Club I must confess that I voted in favour of admitting women at the SMC AGM back in the 1980s, under Bill Wallace's chairmanship, but so far it has not attracted any great flood of emancipated refugees from the LSCC. I have fond memories of Blackrock Cottage and the Scottish hills in summer and winter with some of the older generation of the LSCC as well as some of the indiarubber girls from the orbit of the Austrian Alpine Club who are presently climbing to a standard of grade 10 and 11 and knocking off 8,000-metre Himalayan peaks like Munros. Long may the LSCC continue to grace the Scottish hills as an incentive to those of us with an eye for beauty in the landscape.

12

Charles Linskaill,

Edinburgh 17/05/2008 17:18:57
#10,

Hi Lanna, nice to See ya about!

I'm not into the climbing lark, but 'little Brov' was,

He has been many places all over the World doing his climbing stints.
13

Lanna,

18/05/2008 04:03:07
#11 Hi Dr. Wilkie,
Nicely said! :)

Hi Charles,
When I was technical climbing, I always felt that it was sort of like a game of chess, but with the physical challenge, as well.
Most of my climbs were/are in the S. Calif area, but I've also done the mountaineer's route up Mt Whitney, as well as climbed Mt Russell. Overseas has only been some fun with some non-technical 'rock hopping' in the Austrian Alps (much more fun, as there's Alms/huts that serve beer! ;D)

 

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