ACHNASHEEN, AT THE JUNCTION of the A832 and the A890 (the name is a corruption of Achadh na Sine, the stream flowing into the village) is overlooked by Fionn Bheinn, a hill generally kept for poor weather – or for a last-minute change of plan.
The Mountain Lamb and I were staying, yet again, at Achnasheen. Jimbo joined us later and the Thursday plan was to travel to Fisherfield to help the Mountain Lamb on his slowly diminishing list of outstanding Munros. However, on a track approach to H
eights of Kinlochewe he had bicycle trouble and decided to turn back. Rather than keep him waiting all day, Jimbo and I returned as well. After coffee at Kinlochewe and with less than a full day now free, Jimbo's suggestion to go to Fionn Bheinn was readily accepted.
The lowly 933m/3061ft Fionn Bheinn lies south-west of Loch Fannich and tends to be regarded as a distant outlier of the Fannaichs, yet as a quite separate hill is mostly climbed on its own. The shortest route starts from the village; however, I was keen to show Jimbo a more interesting way; one that gets the hillwalker quickly away from the road to the secluded north-west slopes.
Fionn Bheinn has mostly gentle slopes of lush grass. In 1834, John Leighton wrote: "The mountain is green to the very top, full of spring water and affords the finest feeding for sheep." It still is. Don't be surprised to see sheep grazing right on the top.
Fionn Bheinn translates as "pale-coloured hill", for the higher, drier sections can hold grass that is fair or even of a light yellow colour.
Fionn Bheinn is ill-served by maps, an irksome aspect shared with the Balquhidder area. Three Ordnance Survey maps, 19, 20 and 25, are required. The hardest part of the climb can be getting the full picture. It may be best to self-print the area required.
When based in Inverness, I regarded Fionn Bheinn as a short, winter hill. On one winter paradise day, with a party from the Highland Hillwalking Club, for some reason the club insisted that a newly acquired rope be carried. The need for this extra weight was quickly dispelled and I know of no other person taking a rope for this climb.
Drive west for two miles from Achnasheen (map 25) on the recently improved A832. With the road realignments, the old parking spot by Loch a' Chroisg has gone, so park as close as possible to the Allt Duchairidh. A gravel, then grass, track goes north through a charming wooded area on the east side of the stream. The way narrows in Feadan Duchairidh, with a spectacular ravine below. Once clear of the trees (map 19), the track becomes a grassy stalkers' path – not clearly established and wet in places – that climbs round the north-west shoulder of Meall a' Chaorainn.
It is possible to leave the path to go south-east below Creag Dhubh, or later, cutting over east for the upper reaches of the Allt a' Chlaiginn. The former is by bouldery terrain; the latter crosses a peat-haggy area. However, the easiest way is to stay with the path, dropping a full 200m from the shoulder to just before the point where the path crosses the Allt a' Chlaiginn and the water abstraction works that divert the western flow from Srath Chrombuill to Loch Fannich. Now heading south-eastward, keeping on the south side of Camas Mhic Chullaich, there is a pull up of some 600m, but the broad grassy slopes lend themselves to gradual zigzags.
The summit (map 20) has a trig point but, almost uniquely, there is no cairn. Being an isolated hill, Fionn Bheinn has excellent views of Corbett quality, over to the Fannaichs and to Fisherfield where we could easily identify the hills originally planned for the day. The trig point is perched close to the edge of Toll Mor and the short east/west ridge, with the summit at the west end, must be treated with caution in adverse weather.
We quickly descended by the popular route going east, then southwards west of Creagan nan Laogh, to return to Achnasheen. Even with having to retrieve the car parked by the Allt Duchairidh, we were still back at our cottage by 4pm.
Map Ordnance Survey maps 19, 20 and 25
Distance 7 miles
Height 1000m
Terrain Track, stalkers' path, then grassy hillside
Start point On the A832, two miles west of Achnasheen, map ref 124588
Time 5 to 6 hours
Nearest village Achnasheen
Nearest refreshment spot: Ledgowan Hotel, Achnasheen
The full article contains 787 words and appears in The Scotsman newspaper.
