THE Most westerly, and at 933m/3,061ft the lowest of the compact group of seven Munros south of Crianlarich, Beinn Chabhair is arguably the craggiest. Apart from the summit there are no other tops above 900m, yet its lower complex ground has many a rocky outcrop, such as 719m Meall nan Tarmachan, 715m Stob Creag an Fhithich and 624m Meall Mor nan Eag.
Beinn Chabhair is separated from An Caisteal and Beinn a'Chroin to the north-east by a 619m bealach that makes it part of a common three-hill outing. But it is also often climbed as a solo hill from Glen Falloch to the west, and its summit is a super
b viewpoint in all directions.
Beinn Chabhair probably means hill of the antler – perhaps a reference to its many points, or to the number of deer on the hill – or just possibly hill of the hawk.
The reedy Lochan Beinn Chabhair sits in a wet area. The Ben Glas Burn flows from it, gathering pace as it tumbles over waterfalls to Glen Falloch. Because of these small peaks and the steep rise from the glen, the summit of Beinn Chabhair is not visible from the old drovers' inn at Inverarnan.
The upper River Larig bounds the hill to the south and is part of an old coffin route from Balquhidder to Glen Falloch, the highest point being south-west of Beinn Chabhair at the broad Bealach nan Corp, pass of the corpses.
Beinn Chabhair is honoured by appearing on not one but two Ordnance Survey maps – 50, Glen Orchy, and 56, Loch Lomond – both of which also cover the following route from Inverarnan, which is the easiest approach notwithstanding the immediate steep climb, though this is eased by the obvious path.
From the Inverarnan Inn a path by the A82 leads north the short distance to the bridge over the River Falloch, from where it is a level walk to Beinglas Farm and the West Highland Way (WHW). Ahead lie the Ben Glas Burn and the spectacular Ben Glas Falls.
In looking at those falls, take time to consider what might have been. Historian John McGregor has provided some information about the promoters of the Glasgow & North Western Railway (G&NW), 1882-3, who planned to create a "westerly" route from Glasgow to Inverness, competing with the then Highland Railway by Perth, Blair Atholl and Forres. The line as surveyed came to Lochlomondside near Balmaha and along the shore to Rowardennan and Inversnaid, cutting through headlands and crossing bays by causeway. From Inversnaid it was aligned through the little valley behind Cnap Mor at the head of the loch and across the Ben Glas Falls above Inverarnan. The line continued up the eastern side of Glen Falloch, through Tyndrum, Bridge of Orchy and Inveroran, and across the west side of Rannoch to Kingshouse; almost as the WHW now runs.
By intersecting the Callander & Oban route, the G&NW plan also threatened the Caledonian Company and the combined objections from Highland and Caledonian were sufficient to persuade parliament to reject the G&NW bill. As a postscript, two railways through Glen Falloch briefly became a possibility in 1889 when Caledonian tried to block the West Highland scheme, approved that year, with a branch from Crianlarich to Loch Lomond. That would have made tackling Beinn Chabhair from this direction a less agreeable outing.
The steep climb starts from behind the farm, passing the falls with the gradient only easing when reaching a height of some 300m. After that climb there is relief in the more level walk following the north bank of the burn to Lochan Beinn Chabhair. Maps of the 1890s name it Lochan an Amhghair, loch of anguish or affliction, yet despite the sometimes boggy terrain there is joy in getting the first view of the summit area.
Head north-east to reach the ridge east of Meall nan Tarmachan. Then follow the path on the ridge, passing by a smaller cairn to arrive at the summit on a rocky knoll, this time with a much larger cairn.
To cut out the section from Inverarnan to Derrydaroch, it has been suggested that those walking the WHW might welcome a climb to Beinn Chabhair. I have yet to meet anyone at the summit taking such a detour!
FactfileMap Ordnance Survey maps 50, Glen Orchy, or 56, Loch Lomond
Distance 7 miles
Height 900m
Terrain Steep climb then boggy approach to knobbly ridge, but mostly pathed
Start point Inverarnan Inn, map ref 317185
Time 5 to 6 hours
Nearest village Ardlui
Nearest refreshment spot
Inverarnan Inn
