THE Queen and the Duke of Edinburgh began their first visit to Turkey for 37 years yesterday, on a trip designed to underline Britain's support for Turkish membership in the European Union.
Laying a wreath at the tomb of Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the Queen and Prince Philip embarked upon a four-day tour of the secular Islamic republic.
She described the founder of modern-day Turkey as "one of the greatest figures of modern history" dur
ing a visit to his mausoleum in Ankara. In a visitor's book she wrote it was an "honour" to pay her respects to "a much valued friend of the United Kingdom".
The royal couple were last night due to attend a state banquet hosted by the president, Abdullah Gul, and his wife Hayrunnisa at the president's palace. In a controversial move, it was likely Mrs Gul would wear an Islamic headscarf, despite a ban on them in public and governmental buildings. Turkey's staunchly secular military is deeply opposed to headscarves being worn, while the ruling party, which has Islamic roots, believes religious symbols should be more openly accepted.
Such a move would reignite social tensions in Turkey. The secular establishment, which includes army generals, judges and university professors, sees the headscarf as a symbol of radical Islam and a threat to the country's secular order. Turkey is 99 per cent Muslim and as recently as 1997 the country's army generals, acting with public support, ousted a government they deemed too Islamic.
Dr Anthony Gorman, a lecturer in modern middle eastern history at Edinburgh University, said the headscarf debate is central to Turkey's complex identity, as the young democracy struggles to meet the demands of a Muslim population and a secular, pro-western elite.
"The headscarf is associated with Muslims … but secularism is one of the cornerstones of the Turkish republic. The turban was banned in the 1920s by the founder of the Turkish Republic, Kemal Ataturk," he said.
"He was very prescriptive about clothing … and concerned that Turkey should become a modern secular state rather than an Islamic one. He thought they should look to the West, not to the Middle East."
Turkey's political climate has changed dramatically since the Queen's last visit in 1971. Women have been banned from covering their heads in all state offices and institutions in Turkey for decades. It is part of the strict division between religion and politics in an overwhelmingly Muslim population.
In the 1980s, the headscarf was also prohibited at all universities, declared a symbol of political Islam. Turkey's current government, led by religious conservatives, had long pledged to overturn that but it remains a highly contentious issue.
Later in the trip, the Queen and Duke of Edinburgh will visit the western city of Bursa and will tour a school in Istanbul which has links with UK students. The royal visit highlights the importance of Britain's relationship with Turkey.
Britain is a strong supporter of Turkey's attempts to join the EU. It is seen as a key ally in the fight against terrorism.
In recent years it has also led the International Security Assistance Force fighting the Taleban in Afghanistan. The Prince of Wales and his wife visited Turkey last November.